After almost 15 years of being on camera, I know how I like my face to look and I’m pretty darn assertive about it (which is much preferred by HUM artists – no one wants someone who doesn’t communicate clearly). So when I’m working with a new hair/makeup artist I usually show photos of me that I like and then give the following descriptors:
- I like to look clean, natural, bright and glowy (I also likely say the word ‘youthful’, too, LOL).
- I want my eyes and cheeks and lips to pop (I joke, like a porcelain baby doll).
- I don’t want to look tanner or bronzed (so no contouring) I understand this is ironic what with my self-tanning side profession, but on my face? NOPE. An unnaturally tan face looks cheesy and older IMHO.
- I don’t like eye shadow (and will likely take it off). Reflective is fine or very soft/neutral can be ok but I find that I very much don’t like the look of eye shadow on me.
- I like a clean line (not smudgy) of eyeliner on the top lash line but not the bottom (same with mascara but I’ve had lash extensions forever so I don’t wear mascara).
Danielle Walch did my makeup in LA for over 10 years (I love her so much) so we didn’t even have to think about it. I’m so happy to have found Alyssa Fitchie up here in Portland who is my go-to hire for HMU (which is usually three times a month). I find that I’m WAY more excited to be on camera if I’m feeling good about how I look (shocking) and so I’ll stack all my ad campaigns into one day a week and get HMU so I look/feel my best (and yes, I change clothes for every job). She usually comes 7-8 am or 8-9 am depending on how much we have to shoot (she doesn’t stay all day so is able to take other jobs during the day) and we bang out shoot after shoot (some for reveals, some videos, others for just social campaigns). I honestly wish I could have her come every day. So today we are showing you what she does and what products she uses on me (which are different than the seven things I’ve used for 15 years).
Ok, here we go!
1. Moisturize!
Before we start, Alyssa makes sure I’m moisturized. I feel like it’s pretty much common knowledge that skin prep is crucial for your makeup to look good and stay looking good on your skin. So don’t forget that face lotion.
2. Primer (Face And Eyes)
It’s so easy to want to skip this step but don’t. This is going to make your makeup stay on throughout the day (or night) and is really going to help avoid any creasing. Alyssa uses Smashbox Photo Finish Smooth & Blur Oil-Free Foundation Primer for my face and Urban Decay’s Eyeshadow Primer Potion (Anti-Aging) on my lids. Oh, and she said to make sure to get the anti-aging one because the other version dries and flakes which is clearly not what we want:) The under-eye primer she typically uses is now discontinued (RUDE). She’s still on the hunt for her new favorite but in the meantime, she recommends Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Eye Base.
3. Color Corrector
Alyssa then uses a color corrector under my eyes. This prevents concealer from going gray. Alyssa uses the Bobbi Brown Under Eye Corrector. So you want to choose a contrasting color to your undereye color. This is how to find your shade: “Take a look at the discoloration under the eye. If it’s bluish-purple, choose a bisque shade. If it’s greenish-brown, choose a peach shade. If it’s a mix of both, choose a peach-bisque shade.”
PRO TIP: Add some corrector where the lid meets the nose for added brightness:)
4. Under Eye Concealer
This is the one I always use for shoots: IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Full Coverage Anti-Aging Waterproof Concealer. I really love how it looks and feels.
5. Eyeshadow
As I said, I really hate wearing eyeshadow so Alyssa doesn’t put any on me. The eyeshadow primer she uses helps avoid “oily” eyelids (which I don’t really have) and helps the eyeliner grip. I did ask her what she would use if I did want wear eyeshadow and she recommended this matte Makeup By Mario palette because it’s neutral and really buildable.
6. Eyeliner
To keep a more natural, enhanced look, we go very minimal on the eyeliner. She tight lines (meaning she goes inner waterline of my eyes) with MAC’s Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack which is a soft black and this small angled brush.
7. Foundation
As all of you know I’m a die-hard Armani Luminous Silk foundation gal so that’s what Alyssa uses on me but I asked her what some of her other favorites were and she loves MAC’s Studio Radiance Face & Body Radiant Sheer Foundation for everyday and Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24H Long Wear Matte Foundationfor events. Her biggest reminder for a more “natural look” is to go for light to medium coverage. You still want to be able to see your beautiful skin:)
8. Highlighter
I don’t really use highlighters but I asked Alyssa about it in case you love it! She said, “The one that really rocks the show is the Hourglass Ambient® Lighting Finishing Powder. “It’s not “technically” a highlighter, but it’s a very glowy setting powder and it makes skin look amazing!” For the everyday, Alyssa uses Rare Beauty.
PRO TIP (for liquid highlighters): It looks really beautiful UNDER foundation:)
9. Blush
It’s a classic for a reason – NARS Orgasm. Apply with a flat round stipple brush. That brush will help build the blush so it goes on nicely:)
PRO TIP: For a more youthful look, apply to the apples of your cheeks or C shape around the eye for a more adult look. Just don’t go below where your cheek crests to avoid aging yourself.
10. Eyebrows!
If you’ve been around for a while then you know I basically don’t have eyebrows. It’s super cool. To fill them in, Alyssa uses Benefit’s Precisely, My Brow Pencil Waterproof Eyebrow Definer to give little hair details and then Benefit’s Goof Proof Waterproof Easy Shape & Fill Eyebrow Pencil in 3.75 to fill in.
PRO TIP: For blondes go one shade darker than your hair color and for brunettes go one shade side lighter.
11. Mascara
Since I have lashes I don’t use mascara but if you do she recommends LancômeMonsieur Big Waterproof Mascara.
12. Lips
What can I say I love a drugstore lipstick. This Wet n Wild one (Bare It All) is my favorite.
13. Setting Spray
The last crucial step in long-lasting makeup! Alyssa uses MAC’s Prep + Prime FIX+ for a satin finish. This can bring makeup back to life after applying matte makeup. Alyssa also REALLY loves this setting spray by Urban Decay.
Hope this helped if you’ve been hoping for some guidance on “natural” looking makeup:)
*Makeup by Alyssa Fitchie
**Photos by Kaitlin Green